Email from America
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Date: 09 July, 2005
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'From the moment you step through the door, this
museum sucks you into a barely-lit netherworld of the bizarre and
the ridiculous.'
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Helen Angove takes us on her personal
tour of Los Angeles.
Weve lived in LA for two years now, and
having had a fairly constant stream of visitors from England, needing
to be entertained during their stay, we have had to hit the tourist
trail fairly hard.
So - tourist attractions in LA. Which means Hollywood,
Disneyland, and a trip out to Las Vegas, right? Not being the Tinseltown
or theme-park types, or compulsive gamblers, this didnt exactly
thrill us.
But we soon discovered that Los Angeles does
have its moments of tranquil reflection, and its moments of mind-warping
weirdness. So, if you had 48 hours to spend with me in LA (and plenty
of stamina), where might I take you?
We would start, of course, with breakfast on
the porch at Marstons
in Pasadena. A real American breakfast can be a wonderful thing
- and I dont mean sad packet-mix pancakes and 'eggo' syrup,
served confusingly with bacon and sausage. Marstons will treat you
to one of the best breakfasts you will ever have - all home-made
with fresh ingredients -and you wont have room for lunch.
To walk off breakfast, I would suggest a hike
- and fortunately you are only about 5 miles away from the foothills
of the San
Gabriel Mountains.
The San Gabriel Mountains are a true wilderness
area, butting right onto the edge of the city. Of course, thousands
of Angelinos all desperate to get away from concrete and tarmac
can put a certain amount of strain on the resources, but just walk
a couple of miles or so away from your car, and you are almost guaranteed
solitude.
Going right up into the mountains (sadly beyond
the scope of todays itinerary) also takes you above LAs
habitual smog cover . In fact, on a bad day you can stand at a viewpoint
looking out over the city - and fantasise that you are hundreds
of miles from civilisation, because all you can see is a rolling
sheet of cloud.
Back to Pasadena, the next stop is the Huntington
Library. The Huntington Library is world renowned - and justly
so - for its collection of rare books and manuscripts, but most
visitors actually come here for the fabulous botanical gardens and
the art collection. And if you are feeling homesick, the tea room
serves excellent cream teas - although be warned, you need to reserve
your table (sometimes weeks) in advance.
Finally, we would end the day with an evening
amble round Caltech
Campus, the prettiest university campus I have ever seen. Oxford
or Cambridge may be grander, but with its Spanish-style architecture,
landscaped gardens and lily ponds, Caltech is the most relaxed and
charming. Perhaps a relaxed and charming campus is a necessity,
given that this academic hot-house has the highest suicide rate
of any university in the US.
Day 2 would see us head over to the west of LA.
First stop - the weirdly and wonderfully named Museum
of Jurassic Technology.
From the moment you step through the door, this
museum sucks you into a barely-lit netherworld of the bizarre and
the ridiculous. As you wander bewildered through the labyrinthine
corridors there is no knowing what you will find next - miniature
pictures composed entirely of the scales of butterfly wings perhaps,
or dioramas of trailer-park homes, or a plate of mice on toast.
And if, after an unspecified length of time spent
wandering, you find yourself tired and thirsty, and in front of
a flight of stairs - dont hesitate to climb them. They lead
to the Russian tea room, where you will be served hot tea from a
samovar. Well, what else would you expect?
After the strangeness of MJT, you may find yourself
craving some real culture, so we will head on out to the Getty
Museum. If ever a place were tribute to one mans megalomania,
this is it. Perched arrogantly on a foothill of the Santa Monica
Mountains, this magnificent edifice grandly surveys its view over
Hollywood and Santa Monica. It was built to house, and show off,
the art collection assembled by the oil magnate John Paul Getty.
Even if you dont want to see the art collections, its
worth going for the architecture and the landscaping.
Finally, once you are footsore, tired and bewildered,
we head back to downtown LA. Which may sound like a strange choice,
until we reach our destination - LAs Roman
Catholic Cathedral.
Despite being situated right near the centre
of downtown LA, and practically on top of one of its busiest freeways,
the cathedral is an oasis of cool tranquillity. The extraordinary
building is an exercise in spatial geometry, with windows made of
mica bathing the interior in mellow sepia tones, and specially commissioned
artwork and tapestries on the walls. And if all you really want,
by this time, is a sit down and something to eat - well, the cafes
pretty good, too.
Helen Angove is a former Anglican
priest from the UK who moved to California in July 2003.
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