John McKegney and Bourema Dembelé. Photo: Christian Aid/Adrian Arbib
"Africa is so different. People walking along unkempt roads, rough and ready shacks and battered vehicles make a rich tapestry."

For years the work of Christian Aid has been part of my consciousness. I’ve seen the posters, organised the services, promoted the material and watched the videos. But here I now find myself on a plane to Bamako, capital city of Mali.

It’s my first visit to Africa and to one of the continent’s poorest countries. The flight is several hours late when we touch down at Bamako Airport and as we walk down the steps from the Airbus which had brought us from Paris, the contrast couldn’t be greater. We walk over rough ground in near darkness to a rather basic arrival hall, queues move slowly, insects move quickly, the heat is heavy and air smells rich and spicy.

Eventually we get through passport control, several ticket and baggage checks and are met by David from the Christian Aid office in Bamako. Our luggage and our party – four church representatives, our photographer and two Christian Aid staff are installed in two rather worse for wear four-by-fours for the half-hour journey to our hotel.

Africa is so different. People walking along unkempt roads, rough and ready shacks and battered vehicles make a rich tapestry. After a very bumpy ride we arrive at the Mande Hotel on the banks of the River Niger. Mosquito spray and to bed in Africa.

Waking up to the sights and sounds of Africa is magic. Breakfast is by the mighty Niger under a hot sun. Then into a bustling Bamako heaving with humanity. The poverty is obvious. But people carry themselves with great dignity; their colourful clothes are spotless.

On arrival at the Christian Aid office we’re greeted by a simple building in a poor earth-covered street. A wedding is taking place nearby with the excitement that is common to ceremonies throughout the world. There’s music and dancing and celebration. People do not have long faces in Mali.

In the afternoon we leave Bamako to travel west to Béléco via Fana. On the way we pass the National Stadium – a reminder of Mali’s prowess in soccer. Outside Fana we have an unexpected walk of about a mile when our Toyota Land Cruiser broke down. The roads are fierce for the cars using them.

We cause considerable local interest until we are established in the delightfully named Hotel de Moulin. Our first dinner is outdoors on metal and plastic seats around four tables at a roadside restaurant. Very enjoyable food arrives after a long wait – some have fish and some chicken which had evidently enjoyed considerable exercise in life!

So our first full day in Africa ends in Fana not Béléco. That was to be Monday’s journey – over 80km of unmade dirt roads where we would meet the cotton farmers who are at the sharp end of the vagaries of world trade and the heart of Christian Aid’s campaign.

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